Sweating Luxury

Interesting to observe that fashion and luxury are investing more to be acquainted and develop activations with sport-related actions and brands. The association of both universes is convergent in many ways, sharing obviously few values — perfection, accuracy, necessity, mastery and exclusivity. But so far, the association was narrowing around very specific sports like golf, horse riding, polo, dance and rugby to stretch it a bit. The current revolution comes from the fact the brands included into their creation, under the influence of the young generations and designers, specific codes coming from more popular activities — running, hiking, surfing, basket ball, hockey… This trend, already noticed in few niche brands (Philippe Lim, Sacai, Neil Barrett, Marni…) extends easily to some more recognized brand like Chanel, Dior or Berlutti, using some masstige collections to get it through. And beyond the products and their designs, now, it’s not a deal anymore to see those codes in advertising, retail and merchandising… and of course, in the digital world.

Look at Wimbledon tennis Grand Slam. Ralph Lauren has pulled off quite a coup in becoming so closely associated with the tournament itself for so long, compared to the sportswear brands that back players who must fade with time, no matter how successful they are. It helps that the fashion brand understands the tournament’s ethos, hence all the rules on how to wear the uniform properly. Other brands that have realized the power of the tournament itself include champagne maker Lanson, which released a limited edition. Ralph Lauren isn’t the only brand playing on its sporting heritage, as fashion and sports have gone hand-in-hand for a while now. Moncler celebrated the anniversary of the ascent of K2. One brand impressed with its sports-related marketing is British tailor Hackett, which has teamed up this year with Formula 1 team Williams Martini Racing. A wide variety of brands have, over the years, attempted to attach themselves to the glamour and excitement of Formula 1, with Ferrari being the best known. Fashion brands also have an impressive precedent, though, after Benetton gained huge exposure from its multi colored cars in the mid-90s. Unlike the flamboyant Italians, Hackett’s sponsorship is more understated, with a simple decal on the front of the car. However, the brand has used Formula 1 and all of its connotations. Until this advertising, one of them features the Williams Martini team doing a routine pit stop, except that the team’s mechanics are all dressed in well-tailored Hackett suits, as well as their helmets and fire-proof shoes.

But also, history has proved that athletes can sell products and, perhaps even more important, create the connections between brand and consumer that contemporary companies consider key to success. It’s quite a story when Tommy Hilfiger, which signed Rafa Nadal, tailoring and TH Bold fragrance. Apparently, sales of the underwear doubled year-over-year and Tommy.com saw sales of men’s accessories, including underwear, rise 50 percent during the same period. She directly attributes both to Mr. Nadal’s involvement. These brands aren’t alone in tapping major sports stars. While Nike, Adidas and Under Armour feature heavily, so do numerous luxury houses. Belstaff works with David Beckham, Ralph Lauren has long had a deal with the polo player Nacho Figueras, and the luggage company Tumi last year signed the Formula 1 driver Nico Rosberg. Watch brands also dominate: Roger Federer and Tiger Woods both work with Rolex; Lionel Messi and Serena Williams with Audemars Piguet; Rory McIlroy with Omega; Usain Bolt, Jérôme Boateng of Bayern Munich, and Pelé with Hublot; and Cristiano Ronaldo and Tom Brady with Tag Heuer (there also are big risks: Nike, TAG Heuer and Porsche are just some of the brands that suspended their contracts with the tennis star Maria Sharapova after she announced she had failed a drug test during the Australian Open a while ago).

“For years luxury brands took out a print ad and that was enough, but now influence is a much more complex process,” said Tom Goodwin, Head of Innovation in Zenith Media. “Working with sport is just part of a broader move to modernize.” Many brands are targeting mass-market sports to access a broader set of consumers — soccer, with its estimated 3.5 billion global fans, is one of them. “You wouldn’t traditionally associate football fans with luxury,” said Misha Sher, Head of Sport at the media agency MediaCom. “But rather than focusing on existing niche audiences that can already afford luxury product, these brands are now aligning with sports that can help them target the next generation of consumers.” Jean-Claude Biver, chief executive of TAG Heuer and Hublot and president of the LVMH watch division, said soccer simultaneously reaches existing customers, future customers and the customers that will never buy from you, he said. “It’s really important to talk to all three. Everyone knows Ferrari, but how many people buy one each year? That is what we want to achieve,” he explained. “We want someone to say ‘Ahh, you have a Hublot, that is what I am dreaming of.” Reaching ever larger communities also is part of the aim, Mr. Sher said. “There are huge opportunities with the rising middle classes in developing markets with tens of millions of potential new customers ready to be engaged.” If a brand can count on a soccer personality like the Brazilian phenomenon Neymar, “who they already associate with, then you’re well on your way to landing a customer in the future,” he said. Neymar, with his distinctive hairstyles, is one of the few athletes who has managed to command media attention beyond his sport, Mr. Sher added. Another is David Beckham. “We weren’t attracted to the footballer but the man David Beckham and what he stood for,” said Gavin Haig, chief executive of the British fashion brand Belstaff. “These partnerships have got to be done with integrity,” Mr. Haig said. “You’ve got to have shared values; that’s the beginning of an authentic relationship.” The partnership with Mr. Beckham also extended into two capsule collections.

Consumers are obviously looking for brands that are integrated more in their lifestyles and their cultural references, enhancing transgression values to be highly desirable. Neon42 brings this discussion to brands as a way to make their ecosystem evolve. We can talk about the renewal of luxury, a luxury that is closer to you, more approachable, more integrated in our daily lives and even understood as more practical — that’s a big deal for what we know.